1. Finish the nail with a matte or non-wipe top coat. Put your Swarovski/Preciosa crystals on a triangular tray for easy selecting.
2. Use a strong yet flexible gem gel for placing bigger stones and sharp backs. Pick up a bead of gel half the size of the crystal you’re going to place with a brush or dotting tool. To truly fix sharp backs, the gel must extend up onto the crystal’s girdle.
3. Before curing, apply a non-wipe top coat over the top of this bead of gel. To insert the crystal into the gel, use a wax-tipped gem wand (the Crystal Katana is a fantastic instrument), a dotting tool, or tweezers. Press the tool into the gel to provide a good hold around the base. Applying a non-wipe top coat over the gel prevents a sticky film from forming, which can be difficult to remove after applying the crystal.
4. When using a wax-tipped tool, it is critical to sharpening it (I use a nail file to maintain it sharp) or replace the heads regularly to maintain it in optimum shape for picking up. There is no need to sharpen the wax tip on a Crystal Katana.
5. Cure for the period specified by the manufacturer. Cure bigger crystals over a longer period. Allow the light to cure the gel in between the crystals by having your client slowly move their palm from side to side as it is healing under the lamp. Check that your client’s hand is not tilted too much to one side. In the incorrect location, the crystal will slide and cure. To avoid this, use a portable LED light to perform a short flash cure over the crystal. This will prevent it from moving as it cures under the LED bulb. If you’re using a thinner viscosity gel, you might need to apply one bigger crystal at a time to keep the gel and crystal from running together.
6. To apply tiny crystals, apply a medium viscosity gel to the desired area using a brush or a dotting tool. Use a substantial amount so that the gel can grasp the crystal and function as an anchor. Apply a non-wipe top coat over this. To insert the gem into the gel, use a Crystal Katana, Jewell Setter, gem wand, dotting tool, or tweezers. Press the tool into the gel to provide a good hold around the base. If you apply too much, you may remove it with a brush dipped in cleaner before curing.
7. Mix non-wipe topcoats with caviar beads on a palette (tile, back of a form, foil) and put in the gaps around your selected design.
8. You may seal the edges with a non-wipe top gel if you like, but it’s not necessary. It is critical not to apply any gel or adhesive to the crystals since the brilliance of the crystals is due to light bouncing off the facets. Whatever is placed on top of the stone, regardless of the manner of attachment, will dull the brilliance and reduce its clarity.
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